29-Jun, 09:03

05:57, September 27 148 0

2016-09-27 05:57:06
Paris Fashion Week, Day 1: Enter the Newbies

No offense to Milan or London (though some will surely be taken), but the fashion world waits and waits for Paris Fashion Week. And now, after days of costolette and aperitivi in Milan, it has arrived. The traveling class began arriving yesterday (some, to judge by Instagram, after sneaking in a day off in Como or Cap d’Antibes) and continues today. But the shows won’t wait. What used to be a barely there day of shows has grown into a showcase for the new guard. Here’s what to look for today.

• Olivier Theyskens. Mr. Theyskens, a willowy Belgian with a goth streak, made his name in the houses of Paris, plural: first his own, then Rochas (which landed him in The New York Times Magazine), then Nina Ricci. Now, after a few years in New York, designing a more affordable collection for Theory, he is returning to Paris to show (again) a collection under his own name. Details so far are scant, but Mr. Theyskens has always had his share of acolytes and devotees. Odds are good that his collection will be the first big buzz of a newsy, new-designers-in-high-places Paris Fashion Week.

• Young guns. Since its first award was presented in 2014, the LVMH Prize, a 300,000-euro ($330,000) and mentorship award presented to a designer early in his or her career, has brought attention to labels that otherwise might have languished at the periphery. Now they cluster in the schedule. Tuesday offers a chance to see any of several: Paskal, from the Ukrainian designer Julie Paskal (a semifinalist for the prize in 2014); Aalto, by the Finnish designer Tuomas Merikoski (a finalist in 2016); Koché, by Christelle Kocher, a two-time nominee (in 2015 and 2016); and Y/Project, by Glenn Martens (a finalist in 2016). They’re united by ambition, rather than aesthetic: Mr. Martens makes languid, street-influenced ready-to-wear, Ms. Kocher is a couture embellishment specialist, Mr. Merikoski moonlights as a men’s wear designer for Louis Vuitton. But in ambition they have a good model in Simon Porte Jacquemus of Jacquemus, who presents his new collection this evening, and walked off with a special commendation from the LVMH Prize committee in 2015.

• Hedi Slimane has left the building, and Anthony Vaccarello, late of Versus Versace and his own namesake label, is in the house at Saint Laurent. Mr. Vaccarello is in a tricky position: inheriting a label that has lately had huge success, selling clothes and accessories by the bushel, but that has been irrefutably forged in the image of his predecessor, Mr. Slimane. What will Mr. Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent look like? Tonight is the first chance to find out. Mr. Vaccarello’s teaser advertisements have already begun to appear, but they feature — wait for it — no clothes.

And in case you missed it:

• Before she walks the runway for Gucci, Burberry or Jil Sander, a young model on the make has to pass muster with Barbara Nicoli and Leila Ananna.

• Spring bags and shoes go bananas.

• Related: At Dolce & Gabbana, the lady wore spaghetti.

• Finally, your twice-a-year reminder that Milan Fashion Week is probably the only place on earth where you can bid for the chance to rub lotion on the Victoria’s Secret Angel Adriana Lima’s knees — for charity.