21-Aug, 16:51

06:08, January 17 131 0

2017-01-17 06:08:13
Fashion Review: Longing for the Spirit of ’86 at the Emporio Armani Show

MILAN, Italy — A photocopied image from a catalogue sitting on the desk in front of me shows a handsome young lug in a cashmere Giorgio Armani hoodie. His arms are akimbo. His fists rest lightly on hips clad in neatly tailored trousers with triple inverted pleats. The woolen duster with raglan shoulders he’s wearing looks slouchy and both retro and fully of the moment.

The image, as it happens, is from a long-ago catalog of Mr. Armani’s influential men’s wear career, compiled by two curators from the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

The image is three decades years old.

Throughout his long career, Mr. Armani has often delved into his own archive for inspiration, and he did so again here with an Emporio Armani collection that focused on a silhouette based on a snug, skirted eight-button jacket worn over full, high-water pleated pants. There were plenty of familiar Armani elements, as there always are: velvet brocades, enormous silvered rucksacks for skiing, geometric patterns, sheared pelt panels and geometric messenger bags with fur hems, presumably to keep one’s laptop from catching the flu.

Viewing the collection in a show space rejiggered with new removable seating for increased practicality, one kept wishing that, when consulting his own back pages for this season’s inspiration, his book had fallen open to 1986.