21-Jul, 17:41

14:11, March 24 200 0

2017-03-24 14:11:01
Janelle Monáe, Gloria Steinem and Cecile Richards Among CFDA Honorees

In 2017, it seems that everything is somehow touched by politics. And fashion, even when it is celebrated at a chic penthouse with Champagne and Hudson River views, is no exception.

“Many things are happening in the country right now, and some things we are less proud of than others,” said Diane von Furstenberg, the chairwoman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, at the organization’s announcement of the nominees and honorees for its annual awards.

She went on to name Janelle Monáe, Cecile Richards — the president of Planned Parenthood — and Gloria Steinem as recipients of the Board of Directors’ Tribute for their work with the Women’s March on Washington. Last year, the honor went to David Bowie.

“A lot of our members were marching,” said Steven Kolb, the president and chief executive of the CFDA, which handed out Planned Parenthood pins to New York Fashion Week participants last month. “Diane and I were at breakfast and just talking about what our responsibility is, and we really landed on civic responsibility. It’s not a political focus or an anti-Trump thing.”

That sense of duty was also reflected in an award new to the CFDA: The Swarovski Award for Positive Change, which will be given to Kenneth Cole. “He’s the original,” Mr. Kolb said. “I don’t think there’s anybody who predates Kenneth in terms of social responsibility, in terms of using marketing for social causes, lending his brand and himself to supporting others.”

As for the other Swarovski Awards, which are usually handed out to three different designers in three categories — men’s wear, women’s wear and accessories — those were combined into one award for emerging talent. Nominated for it are Laura Vassar Brock and Kristopher Brock for Brock Collection; Gabriela Hearst; Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia for Monse; Virgil Abloh for Off-White; and Sander Lak for Sies Marjan.

“The blur between men’s and women’s is happening,” Mr. Kolb said of the change. “And this makes it more competitive. It elevates the pool of talent.”

There were far fewer surprises in the other categories. The nominees for the Womenswear Designer of the Year Award are Joseph Altuzarra; Raf Simons for Calvin Klein; Marc Jacobs; Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez for Proenza Schouler; and Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for the Row. Six of these individuals were also nominees last year. (Mr. Jacobs took home the prize.)

Of the Menswear Designer of the Year Award nominees — Raf Simons for Calvin Klein, Robert Geller, Thom Browne, Tim Coppens and Todd Snyder — three were also contenders last year.

In the accessories category, the nominees are Stuart Vevers for Coach; Irene Neuwirth; Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel for Mansur Gavriel (who won last year); Paul Andrew; and Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for the Row.

The makeup artist Pat McGrath will be given the Founder’s Award, which went to Donna Karan last year; and Rick Owens, who has four CFDA awards under his belt, will receive the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award.

The International Award will be presented to Demna Gvasalia, whose name Ms. von Furstenberg promised to learn to pronounce in time for the June awards ceremony, for Vetements and Balenciaga.

Franca Sozzani, the editor of Italian Vogue who died in December, will posthumously receive the Fashion Icon Award, which has gone to recipients like Rihanna and Beyoncé.

The awards will be handed out on June 5 at the Hammerstein Ballroom in Manhattan. Until then, the contenders will just have to be patient. Luckily, many have become accustomed to the waiting game.

”Last year it went by so fast,” said Ms. Kim, one of the designers for Monse, which was nominated for a Swarovski Award in 2016. “You don’t really realize what’s happening. We’re just going to enjoy it.”